Day 14. Elephants

April 12th.
Today was our long awaited trip to the elephant jungle sanctuary in Pattaya.

Pattaya is a 2 hour drive from Bangkok and we'd booked a driver through our air bnb host,  which it turned out was cheaper than the bus for 5 of us.

We were transported in the back of a pick up truck with seats from the bus station to the elephant sanctuary.  We shared the journey with a young American who is teaching English in Korea and exploring Asia whilst she's there. It was interesting to hear her stories of the stress on Korean students and the adventures she's having. 

When we arrived at the sanctuary we were given a woven overgarment which the elephants recognise and we were introduced to the elephants,  with an explanation of how to behave around them and given food to use to befriend them.  This included pineapple,  bananas, cucumbers and sugar cane. 

There were only 6 elephants and they had all been rescued, with sad stories of their previous life,  such as being used to haul logs or trained in the circus.

When we'd fed the elephants, both by putting food in their trunks or bravely slotting it into their mouths we walked with the elephants along to the mud bath they use, then we joined in covering them with mud to cool them. We also got rather muddy in the process, of course.

Our favourite part was going in the lake with the elephants to wash them.  We could splash them and scrub them with a brush.  One of the elephants squirted Matthew with their trunk,  which was very funny. The elephants look surprisingly graceful rolling over in the water and they certainly enjoyed the attention. 

Once we'd showered and changed three was a buffet lunch provided before we could feed the elephants again and say goodbye to them before heading to our next activity,  making elephant dung paper by spreading the cleaned,  boiled dung out in a frame in water and setting it out to dry.

Toby was not feeling well all day but he still managed to enjoy the experience, especially the water splashing and scrubbing.

Once we'd made the paper it was back in the pick up to the collection point for our driver and the journey back to Bangkok. Pretty smooth going until the last 2 km took almost 15 mins in a traffic jam.  Crazy Bangkok traffic.

Once home,  Toby went straight to bed and Jon and Matthew went out to collect some food for tea.  Delicious fried rice from a local stall was filling,  and the chilled Chang beer very welcome after such a hot day.

Packing again in prep for checkout and the homeward flights was a necessary evil so we could have a lie in on Saturday.

Day 13. Exploring Bangkok

April 11th.

3 forms of transport (underground, skytrain and river boat) successfully negotiated our way to Wat Arun on the west bank of the Chao Phraya river, although I'm pretty sure we bought a ticket for the public boat and accidentally got on the (triple the price) tourist boat instead.

The Wat Arun temple is stunning with a tiled tower and many statues in the alcoves.  That's the tourist bit and we almost missed the actual active Buddhist temple just next door,  but we saw it on our way to the public pier. It was so hot the ground burned our feet as we took off our shoes to go in.  Dominated by a huge statue of Buddha,  the space was mainly floor for people to sit on,  with a raised platform for the one Buddhist monk who was blessing people with water, although we didn't stay for that.

We returned across the river by local ferry at 4baht (10p) each! From there we walked to the flower market where there were many orange coloured flower arrangements and garlands for sale as Buddhist offerings.

After tensions were raised over lack of food,  too much walking in the heat rather than catching a boat back down the river we went to the local food court and were the only white people there.  This was a  positive sign as the food was good quality and great value. 

Strengthened by lunch we walked another 2km to the nearest metro station,  passing through China town with its many jewellery stores, fabric shops and food stalls in the street.

The underground was a bargain at 33baht each for 10 stops (Just over £1.50) and we were relieved to be back at the apartment and able to cool down with the air con.

A swim early eve to cool down was very welcome and then Jon,  Joanne and Matthew returned to the night market whilst Peter and Toby chose to gave an early night as they were not feeling too good. 

Bargains at the night market included a watch for £2.50. I wonder how long that will last in Toby's care?!

Returning to the condo late evening we are looking forward to our long awaited trip to the elephant sanctuary tomorrow.

Lessons learnt 1: The underground system in Bangkok does not cover the whole city and it's  often a long walk to the nearest station.

Lessons learnt 2: The priority seat on the underground is for the elderly, disabled,  pregnant women or Buddhist monks,  with a special orange colour on the info to denote the Buddhist monk.

Day 12. Koh Mook to Bangkok

Starting the day woken by a cockerel at 5.30am, then snoozing till 8am when the national anthem, which we presume was played at the local school to start the day,  set the dogs howling.  We were all well and truly awake by then,  so we got on with packing for our next travel day.

We ate breakfast in the town then checked out and walked to the pier for our longtail boat to the mainland. We borrowed a trolley from coco lodge and returned it before boarding our boat, then were pleased to see our mini van taxi waiting at the pier on the mainland.

Flying from Trang airport to Bangkok took 1hr30mins but there was the inevitable waiting around before boarding.  We landed in Bangkok at 4.30pm and were settled in our air bnb condo with a pool by  6pm. A refreshing swim in the dark was much appreciated and it was also good to use the washing machine so we have enough clothes you see us through the next few days.

Jon had sought it local activities and our apartment is a 20 minute walk away from Ratchada Rot Fai Train night market so we wandered over there to get some food.  The market was enormous and sold all sorts from food, clothes,  tattoos,  manicures and souvenirs.  We were conservative with our food choices,  overlooking the squid eggs in favour of pork and chicken,  although Joanne did try some Chinese battered balls of salmon,  tuna and seaweed, which were tasty.

Kitted out with sunglasses (Toby), a new phone case (Peter), and various other bits and pieces,  we finally left the market at 10pm (well before it closed) and walked back home,  where we are all grateful for air conditioning. It was 32c according to the thermometers on sale at the market.

Another day,  another location.  Catching up with Brexit news on Al Jazeera tv.

Lesson learnt:  some Thai food at the market is served by pouring it into a table covered with greaseproof type paper,  and eaten with plastic gloved hands. It looked like seafood,  noodles and sauce.  Quite a sight,  but we weren't brave enough to try it. 

Day 11. Emerald cave and snorkelling

An early start - 7.30am for the moto taxi to the boat for our trip to the emerald cave,  which is on the west side of Koh Mook. We'd booked takeaway breakfast from the resort so we had American pancakes and roti with us.

Visiting times for the cave are dictated by tide times as you have to swim through a tunnel to get to the cave (which has an open roof) inside. It's only accessible at low tide and is busier in the afternoon so we thought the early morning was worth it. 

The moto taxi is basically a motorbike with a frame and some seats fastened to the side.  A bit hair raising as the ride along the pier saw another moto taxi coming the other way with barely room to pass.

On to our longtail boat with a father son team of driver and guide.

We were issued life jackets and followed the guide with his head torch through the tunnel into the open cave,  which has a beach inside and vertical cliff sides with all sorts of plants growing there.  It was pretty dark in the tunnel and we were keen to keep up with the guide.

It was pleasing that the cave only had a few other visitors when we arrived as it was only about 8am. We took some time to explore,  then swam with our guide back through the tunnel to the longtail boat,  avoiding the jellyfish on the way!

Next stop the coral reef on Koh Kradan,  a neighbouring island. By 9am we were snorkelling there with an amazing array of fish, and no other humans nearby. When we'd had enough,  after about 45 mins,  we returned to the boat and a platter of pineapple and watermelon.

Once we'd enjoyed the refreshing fruit we were taken to another coral reef for more snorkelling, and here we saw Nemo, amongst other fish.  It was truly like the film where the clown fish swim in and out of the swaying fronds of growth on the reef.  The boat men encouraged the boys to throw the melon skin for the fish and they swarmed to eat it, which was fascinating to watch.

A stop on the white sands of Koh Kradan completed our half day trip,  and we're pleased to be staying on Koh Mook as the prices,  at least on the beach of Koh Kradan,  were double what we've been paying.

Trying to catch a breeze, and a few board/ card games by the huts passed the hottest part of the day,  before a cycle to Charlie beach for a meal and a good view of the sunset.

Lessons learnt: Moto taxis are very manoevreable, which is a good job as they're often avoiding each other on very narrow roads!

Day 6. Trang to Koh Libong

After a great night's sleep in an air conditioned room we were ready for the next journey. 

This time taxi,  then longtail boat to Koh Libong, an island about 30 mins off the coast near Trang.

The libong relax beach resort certainly loves up to its name. Deserted beach,  good snorkelling and a traditional hut with relaxing cushions on the balcony (which is where I'm writing from)

The journey from the island port to the hotel was another form of transport.  The back of a pick up truck! Burning hot on the edges it was at least efficient and we and our luggage arrived safely.

When we'd unpacked we enjoyed the beach (flip flops on for the boiling hot sand) and sea, before enjoying ac traditional Thai meal in the restaurant.

Pad Thai for Jon and fried rice for Joanne.  The kids went more American with burger and chips!

Setting up the mosquito nets for the night was a first for all of us but we managed it and made sure we kept the doors and windows shut to keep out the monkeys!

Lessons learnt: no toilet paper to be flushed results in the need to go local,  using the shower hose next to the loo to clean up after toileting. Not bad once you get used to it.

Day 10. Koh Mook

Today we made the most of the free bike hire at Coco Lodge and cycled on our retro bikes (with baskets,  dodgy gears and a prop stand that kept resetting) to Charlie beach on the other side of the island.

Arriving by 9.30 meant we could enjoy breakfast in a raised cafe with a view of the beach when it was empty. 

After breakfast of American style pancakes or fried eggs we divided into those kayaking (Jon,  Matthew and Peter) and those staying on land (Joanne and Toby). An hour of sea kayaking took the boys round the headland to see the next cove and returning ready to cool down in the sea before the hottest part of the day,  although with 32c temperature and a 68% humidity it's pretty hot.

Cycling back was quicker than the journey to the beach and we spent the afternoon relaxing in our around our huts. Jon headed back to Charlie beach to watch the sunset and the rest of us enjoyed a brief rain shower which cooled the temperature slightly.

Dinner in Koh Mook this evening consisted of Penang curry and Thai green curry or fried rice, with a cooling Chang beer or a fruit smoothie.

Having booked a boat to the emerald cave and Koh Kradan for snorkelling tomorrow,  we have an early start of 7.20 so we're off to bed.

Lessons learnt 1: stay alert I  the shower - cockroaches can get into an outdoor bathroom and crawl on your feet. 

Lessons learnt 2: Thai people love children.  Toby's face was a bit pink at lunchtime and a lady from coco lodge went to cut some fresh aloe Vera to sooth his sunburn. 

Day 9. To Koh Mook Coco Lodge

A morning of breakfast,  swim/ snorkel and packing was our last in Koh Libong before a longtail boat journey of about an hour to our second island visit.

This time,  Koh Mook and the Coco Lodge resort.   It's exciting to be brought straight to the beach in front of the resort and have to walk through the shallows to get to the shore.  The boat driver helps to carry the cases. We thought we'd packed light but  when we're shipping our stuff around every 3 days it doesn't feel like it!

Coco Lodge accommodation is bamboo huts which are raised above the ground with an outdoor bathroom, covered above but with open sides above the walls.

The beach is not as nice as at Koh Libong but it's nice to have 2 huts and bathrooms between us and a bit more space.

The island of Koh Mook has a small town and there are other beaches we can reach by walking or using the bikes that are free to borrow from the resort. 

Leaving the beach option for tomorrow,  we wandered into town for lunch then made the most of the shade on a hot afternoon to play more cards, although Jon and Matthew couldn't resist exploring by bike and returned very hot and sweaty after their look around the locality on two wheels.

Barbecued king mackerel was a delicious dinner. Super fresh and very tasty, with a Chang beer poured over ice to wash it down.

Felt really got today as so little breeze - the wall fan in the huts will be greatly appreciated.