Day 14. Elephants

April 12th.
Today was our long awaited trip to the elephant jungle sanctuary in Pattaya.

Pattaya is a 2 hour drive from Bangkok and we'd booked a driver through our air bnb host,  which it turned out was cheaper than the bus for 5 of us.

We were transported in the back of a pick up truck with seats from the bus station to the elephant sanctuary.  We shared the journey with a young American who is teaching English in Korea and exploring Asia whilst she's there. It was interesting to hear her stories of the stress on Korean students and the adventures she's having. 

When we arrived at the sanctuary we were given a woven overgarment which the elephants recognise and we were introduced to the elephants,  with an explanation of how to behave around them and given food to use to befriend them.  This included pineapple,  bananas, cucumbers and sugar cane. 

There were only 6 elephants and they had all been rescued, with sad stories of their previous life,  such as being used to haul logs or trained in the circus.

When we'd fed the elephants, both by putting food in their trunks or bravely slotting it into their mouths we walked with the elephants along to the mud bath they use, then we joined in covering them with mud to cool them. We also got rather muddy in the process, of course.

Our favourite part was going in the lake with the elephants to wash them.  We could splash them and scrub them with a brush.  One of the elephants squirted Matthew with their trunk,  which was very funny. The elephants look surprisingly graceful rolling over in the water and they certainly enjoyed the attention. 

Once we'd showered and changed three was a buffet lunch provided before we could feed the elephants again and say goodbye to them before heading to our next activity,  making elephant dung paper by spreading the cleaned,  boiled dung out in a frame in water and setting it out to dry.

Toby was not feeling well all day but he still managed to enjoy the experience, especially the water splashing and scrubbing.

Once we'd made the paper it was back in the pick up to the collection point for our driver and the journey back to Bangkok. Pretty smooth going until the last 2 km took almost 15 mins in a traffic jam.  Crazy Bangkok traffic.

Once home,  Toby went straight to bed and Jon and Matthew went out to collect some food for tea.  Delicious fried rice from a local stall was filling,  and the chilled Chang beer very welcome after such a hot day.

Packing again in prep for checkout and the homeward flights was a necessary evil so we could have a lie in on Saturday.

Day 13. Exploring Bangkok

April 11th.

3 forms of transport (underground, skytrain and river boat) successfully negotiated our way to Wat Arun on the west bank of the Chao Phraya river, although I'm pretty sure we bought a ticket for the public boat and accidentally got on the (triple the price) tourist boat instead.

The Wat Arun temple is stunning with a tiled tower and many statues in the alcoves.  That's the tourist bit and we almost missed the actual active Buddhist temple just next door,  but we saw it on our way to the public pier. It was so hot the ground burned our feet as we took off our shoes to go in.  Dominated by a huge statue of Buddha,  the space was mainly floor for people to sit on,  with a raised platform for the one Buddhist monk who was blessing people with water, although we didn't stay for that.

We returned across the river by local ferry at 4baht (10p) each! From there we walked to the flower market where there were many orange coloured flower arrangements and garlands for sale as Buddhist offerings.

After tensions were raised over lack of food,  too much walking in the heat rather than catching a boat back down the river we went to the local food court and were the only white people there.  This was a  positive sign as the food was good quality and great value. 

Strengthened by lunch we walked another 2km to the nearest metro station,  passing through China town with its many jewellery stores, fabric shops and food stalls in the street.

The underground was a bargain at 33baht each for 10 stops (Just over £1.50) and we were relieved to be back at the apartment and able to cool down with the air con.

A swim early eve to cool down was very welcome and then Jon,  Joanne and Matthew returned to the night market whilst Peter and Toby chose to gave an early night as they were not feeling too good. 

Bargains at the night market included a watch for £2.50. I wonder how long that will last in Toby's care?!

Returning to the condo late evening we are looking forward to our long awaited trip to the elephant sanctuary tomorrow.

Lessons learnt 1: The underground system in Bangkok does not cover the whole city and it's  often a long walk to the nearest station.

Lessons learnt 2: The priority seat on the underground is for the elderly, disabled,  pregnant women or Buddhist monks,  with a special orange colour on the info to denote the Buddhist monk.

Day 12. Koh Mook to Bangkok

Starting the day woken by a cockerel at 5.30am, then snoozing till 8am when the national anthem, which we presume was played at the local school to start the day,  set the dogs howling.  We were all well and truly awake by then,  so we got on with packing for our next travel day.

We ate breakfast in the town then checked out and walked to the pier for our longtail boat to the mainland. We borrowed a trolley from coco lodge and returned it before boarding our boat, then were pleased to see our mini van taxi waiting at the pier on the mainland.

Flying from Trang airport to Bangkok took 1hr30mins but there was the inevitable waiting around before boarding.  We landed in Bangkok at 4.30pm and were settled in our air bnb condo with a pool by  6pm. A refreshing swim in the dark was much appreciated and it was also good to use the washing machine so we have enough clothes you see us through the next few days.

Jon had sought it local activities and our apartment is a 20 minute walk away from Ratchada Rot Fai Train night market so we wandered over there to get some food.  The market was enormous and sold all sorts from food, clothes,  tattoos,  manicures and souvenirs.  We were conservative with our food choices,  overlooking the squid eggs in favour of pork and chicken,  although Joanne did try some Chinese battered balls of salmon,  tuna and seaweed, which were tasty.

Kitted out with sunglasses (Toby), a new phone case (Peter), and various other bits and pieces,  we finally left the market at 10pm (well before it closed) and walked back home,  where we are all grateful for air conditioning. It was 32c according to the thermometers on sale at the market.

Another day,  another location.  Catching up with Brexit news on Al Jazeera tv.

Lesson learnt:  some Thai food at the market is served by pouring it into a table covered with greaseproof type paper,  and eaten with plastic gloved hands. It looked like seafood,  noodles and sauce.  Quite a sight,  but we weren't brave enough to try it. 

Day 11. Emerald cave and snorkelling

An early start - 7.30am for the moto taxi to the boat for our trip to the emerald cave,  which is on the west side of Koh Mook. We'd booked takeaway breakfast from the resort so we had American pancakes and roti with us.

Visiting times for the cave are dictated by tide times as you have to swim through a tunnel to get to the cave (which has an open roof) inside. It's only accessible at low tide and is busier in the afternoon so we thought the early morning was worth it. 

The moto taxi is basically a motorbike with a frame and some seats fastened to the side.  A bit hair raising as the ride along the pier saw another moto taxi coming the other way with barely room to pass.

On to our longtail boat with a father son team of driver and guide.

We were issued life jackets and followed the guide with his head torch through the tunnel into the open cave,  which has a beach inside and vertical cliff sides with all sorts of plants growing there.  It was pretty dark in the tunnel and we were keen to keep up with the guide.

It was pleasing that the cave only had a few other visitors when we arrived as it was only about 8am. We took some time to explore,  then swam with our guide back through the tunnel to the longtail boat,  avoiding the jellyfish on the way!

Next stop the coral reef on Koh Kradan,  a neighbouring island. By 9am we were snorkelling there with an amazing array of fish, and no other humans nearby. When we'd had enough,  after about 45 mins,  we returned to the boat and a platter of pineapple and watermelon.

Once we'd enjoyed the refreshing fruit we were taken to another coral reef for more snorkelling, and here we saw Nemo, amongst other fish.  It was truly like the film where the clown fish swim in and out of the swaying fronds of growth on the reef.  The boat men encouraged the boys to throw the melon skin for the fish and they swarmed to eat it, which was fascinating to watch.

A stop on the white sands of Koh Kradan completed our half day trip,  and we're pleased to be staying on Koh Mook as the prices,  at least on the beach of Koh Kradan,  were double what we've been paying.

Trying to catch a breeze, and a few board/ card games by the huts passed the hottest part of the day,  before a cycle to Charlie beach for a meal and a good view of the sunset.

Lessons learnt: Moto taxis are very manoevreable, which is a good job as they're often avoiding each other on very narrow roads!

Day 6. Trang to Koh Libong

After a great night's sleep in an air conditioned room we were ready for the next journey. 

This time taxi,  then longtail boat to Koh Libong, an island about 30 mins off the coast near Trang.

The libong relax beach resort certainly loves up to its name. Deserted beach,  good snorkelling and a traditional hut with relaxing cushions on the balcony (which is where I'm writing from)

The journey from the island port to the hotel was another form of transport.  The back of a pick up truck! Burning hot on the edges it was at least efficient and we and our luggage arrived safely.

When we'd unpacked we enjoyed the beach (flip flops on for the boiling hot sand) and sea, before enjoying ac traditional Thai meal in the restaurant.

Pad Thai for Jon and fried rice for Joanne.  The kids went more American with burger and chips!

Setting up the mosquito nets for the night was a first for all of us but we managed it and made sure we kept the doors and windows shut to keep out the monkeys!

Lessons learnt: no toilet paper to be flushed results in the need to go local,  using the shower hose next to the loo to clean up after toileting. Not bad once you get used to it.

Day 10. Koh Mook

Today we made the most of the free bike hire at Coco Lodge and cycled on our retro bikes (with baskets,  dodgy gears and a prop stand that kept resetting) to Charlie beach on the other side of the island.

Arriving by 9.30 meant we could enjoy breakfast in a raised cafe with a view of the beach when it was empty. 

After breakfast of American style pancakes or fried eggs we divided into those kayaking (Jon,  Matthew and Peter) and those staying on land (Joanne and Toby). An hour of sea kayaking took the boys round the headland to see the next cove and returning ready to cool down in the sea before the hottest part of the day,  although with 32c temperature and a 68% humidity it's pretty hot.

Cycling back was quicker than the journey to the beach and we spent the afternoon relaxing in our around our huts. Jon headed back to Charlie beach to watch the sunset and the rest of us enjoyed a brief rain shower which cooled the temperature slightly.

Dinner in Koh Mook this evening consisted of Penang curry and Thai green curry or fried rice, with a cooling Chang beer or a fruit smoothie.

Having booked a boat to the emerald cave and Koh Kradan for snorkelling tomorrow,  we have an early start of 7.20 so we're off to bed.

Lessons learnt 1: stay alert I  the shower - cockroaches can get into an outdoor bathroom and crawl on your feet. 

Lessons learnt 2: Thai people love children.  Toby's face was a bit pink at lunchtime and a lady from coco lodge went to cut some fresh aloe Vera to sooth his sunburn. 

Day 9. To Koh Mook Coco Lodge

A morning of breakfast,  swim/ snorkel and packing was our last in Koh Libong before a longtail boat journey of about an hour to our second island visit.

This time,  Koh Mook and the Coco Lodge resort.   It's exciting to be brought straight to the beach in front of the resort and have to walk through the shallows to get to the shore.  The boat driver helps to carry the cases. We thought we'd packed light but  when we're shipping our stuff around every 3 days it doesn't feel like it!

Coco Lodge accommodation is bamboo huts which are raised above the ground with an outdoor bathroom, covered above but with open sides above the walls.

The beach is not as nice as at Koh Libong but it's nice to have 2 huts and bathrooms between us and a bit more space.

The island of Koh Mook has a small town and there are other beaches we can reach by walking or using the bikes that are free to borrow from the resort. 

Leaving the beach option for tomorrow,  we wandered into town for lunch then made the most of the shade on a hot afternoon to play more cards, although Jon and Matthew couldn't resist exploring by bike and returned very hot and sweaty after their look around the locality on two wheels.

Barbecued king mackerel was a delicious dinner. Super fresh and very tasty, with a Chang beer poured over ice to wash it down.

Felt really got today as so little breeze - the wall fan in the huts will be greatly appreciated.

Day 8. Goodbyes and dugongs

Today was the day we had to say goodbye to the Prices who were travelling back to Malaysia by car to start work and school on Monday. We were sad to see them go after a fun week together with them sharing with us some of their life in Asia.

We had breakfast together then said goodbye before we got on our boat to go and see the dugongs off the coast of koh libong. 

Dugongs are a relative of the manatee and are also known as sea cows.  The trip took us out by longtail boat to the area they are usually found.  We had a view of a few dugong surfacing but they quickly disappeared and they must be good at holding their breath as once they dived we never seemed to see them for a long time.

So all in all a trip that could have been more interesting but the small views we got of the dugongs were tantalising so we spent a long time waiting for more sightings.  The result was sunburnt arms as the sea breeze had made us unaware of how hot it actually was.

The driver kindly let the boys take turns at the helm on the return journey,  much to their delight.

Arriving back at the relax beach resort at the hottest time of day we made use of the balcony shade and whiled away the time watching the stunning sea view.

Dinner and cards passed the evening of our last night in Koh Libong.  We picked our way along the sandy path,  avoiding the hermit crabs, (which were varying in size but very plentiful) for the last time as on Sunday we would be setting off to Koh Mook.

Day 7. Koh Libong

After a hot,  stormy night where no-one got much sleep we were relieved it was a bit cooler today, a mere 28c.

We had breakfast in the hotel restaurant and made the most of the morning coolness to snorkel the coral just off the coast. Sadly a lot of coral is dead but there is some living coral and some colourful fish to view.

Once it got too hot to be out we retreated to the shade of the hammocks or the raised deck outside our accommodation. 

Joanne  and Joanna (Price) enjoyed the luxury of a Thai massage  overlooking the beach with the sounds of the waves in the background. Super relaxing.

The afternoon drifted by with a bit of reading and card games,  then a wander across the coral at low tide to the small island just off the coast.  In the rock pools we saw fish and sea cucumbers and we sourced the strange clicking noise to the small crabs in the shallow water.

Toby discovered all sorts of weird and wonderful creatures by picking up rocks and investigating underneath,  including crabs, sea snails and a strange star like water spider.

Back to the hotel for a meal of Thai curry and other delights then a quick search for fireflies once it was dark.  None to be found today,  but we did walk up to the rubber plantation before heading back for a drink before bed.

Day 5. Travel to Trang

An early morning taxi ride to the bus station was the start of our travel day.

Mini bus transport to Thailand was the aim of the day.

We got on the first bus which took us over the border,  2 lots of passport checks meant we had to get off the bus and go through as foot passengers. Once to leave Malaysia, then again to enter Thailand.

Once over the border the landscape was more built up.  We also passed rubber plantations and rice fields.

A change of bus appeared straightforward but the driver wouldn't let us on  despite us waving our tickets and he kept pointing to our cases and saying something in Thai.  In the end we worked out he wanted money to put our cases on the bus and we paid the 200thb (£4) and got on. 

Arriving in Trang,  where we were to stay for the night,  it was pouring with rain again and we all crammed into a tuk tuk to get to our hostel.

We explored in the rain,  finding street at and tasting some local cakes in a cafe.  The tea with milk turned out to be with condensed milk,  so very sickly, but the milkshakes and cakes were a hit.

James and Jo arrived separately by car and we got takeaway food from the night market.  Spicy Thai green curry and mango sticky rice for dessert. 

A day of adventure.

Day 2. Rest day

James and Jo live on the 26th floor of their apartment block,  with no number 4, 13 or 14 (unlucky numbers so they're replaced by 3A, 12A and 12B).

The pool is on the 5th floor and we enjoyed a relaxing morning there before lunch at the food court in the local Tesco. A bit different to Tesco in the UK, we had tandoori chicken and rice or naan. The noise of chatter in the food court is so loud it's hard to hear each other.

In the afternoon some of us crashed out in front of the tv and others went to the mall for flip flops.  Matthew got his new. Fippers (Malaysian flip flop brand) and Joanne looked for a new swimming costume as hers had perished in the sun. With a choice of burkinis, swim skirts or expensive Australian bikinis the best compromise turned out to be the same swim suit as Jo Price! There's a reason she chose it. Limited choice in Muslim country.

So,  with matching swimming costumes and bread purchased for tea we returned home,  where the boys were inspired to use the gym and swim again!

Evening meal and then an early night  were needed in prep for the next day. 

Travelling again. Malaysia and Thailand

Heading to Malaysia got off to a stressful start with a busy M62 slowing down the journey to Manchester airport.

A short flight to Helsinki was followed by a longer flight to Singapore, then with a change at Changi airport in Singapore we were on our third and final flight to Penang.

Finnair was good but we didn't enjoy the food so much. 

James met us at the airport and we managed to squash in his car with Toby sitting in the back row of seats surrounded by cases.

It was nearly 10.30pm local time when we arrived at James and Jo's house so sheet a cup of tea and a quick catch up we were keen to get to bed, but we struggled to sleep due to a massive thunderstorm so the adults watched that from the balcony for a while before heading to bed again.

Day 4. Escape!

Today was a full on activity day.  Breakfast of roti on the way to the theme park,  which included go ape, and a water park.

We all tried the trapeze and Matthew was so good he was invited to be part of the show,  where a trapeze artist caught him and swung him around.

After a torrential downpour we got changed for the water park and carried on the adventure there for the afternoon.

Slides, pools and a synchronised swim and diving show kept us entertained.  The boys all entered the banana flip competition, which involved trying to have a stylish landing after being fired out of of a curved yellow tube!

After stopping for food on the way home we packed our cases to leave Penang and travel to Thailand.

Day 3. Turtle beach and George Town

We trekked to turtle beach on our last visit to Malaysia in 2016, but Toby was keen to visit as he slipped on a rock and injured his foot last time and wanted to have a better experience.

So we walked through the rainforest,  with all the fungi and plants helped song but a torrential downpour on the way.

The baby turtles were very cute and the setting as idyllic as before.  Having spotted one jellyfish we were not keen to paddle or swim so once we'd had our lunch we waited on the jetty for our boat to arrive and take us round the coast back to the car.

By the time the boat collected us it was torrential rain again, which meant the ride home was both bumpy and soggy, but good fun.

The dads were on James' moto so they didn't dry out much between the car park and the food court where we stopped for lunch. Local food and drinks were interesting.  Noodles with pork and prawns,  and juice of watermelon,  local apples and coconut filled us up.

In the evening the adults went or for dinner whilst the teenagers went to the cinema and the younger ones stayed at home.